piatok 18. septembra 2015

Sri Lanka - Adam´s Peak


Climbing Adam´s Peak is one of popular things to do in Sri Lanka. Some people will tell you it is not worth it, that the views are not that stunning and you have to climb the stairs for hours basically to see an average view, others will tell you it was amazing...When you are short of time, it is tough decision, because Adam´s Peak is situated in central Sri Lanka and it takes several hours to get from there to another interesting place. Well, i squeezed it in our itinerary just to be sure I will not be missing something :-). And so we went.
 Adam's Peak (also called Sri Pada or "butterfly mountain", is a 2,243 m (7,359 ft) tall mountain and a Buddhist pilgrimage site located in central Sri Lanka. It is well known for the Sri Pada, i.e., "sacred footprint",which in Buddhist tradition is held to be the footprint of the Buddha, in Hindu tradition that of Shiva and in Islamic and Christian tradition that of Adam. In Islamic tradition it is the site where Adam fell to earth.
We arrived in Nallathanniya (a village where most of the people start the climb) early in the evening. We went for a walk to see where to go at night (the climb starts around 2 a.m. so you can see the sunrise), but there was nothing much to see but shops selling funny furry caps (typical for Sri lankans), sweaters, jackets, gloves and colorful toys,  (it is cold up there on the top), so we returned quicly to our room and tried to get some rest before the climb.
We started the climb at 2:30 a.m.  The greater part of the track leading from the base to the summit consists of thousands of steps built in cement or rough stones. First, they are not that steep, but later the steps are higher and higher. By the time you reach the top, you are sweating like a pig and shivering from cold wind at the same time. You really need a good windproof jacket there. The trails are illuminated with electric light, so walking there at night is as easy as during the day. It was unbelievable how many people were on the trail, and how many locals were already climbing down in the middle of the night. And I am talking about really old and sick people too.
There are rest stops and wayside shops along the trails, which  serve refreshments and supplies. We stopped at the last one, 300 meters under the summit, and had some hot tea.
 After arriving to the top, we realized it is already packed with people, you could hardly move there. We managed to find a spot near the rails and waited. We waited for the sunrise as all the people around us. It took at least an hour in freezing cold until the sun appeared. Everybody was so excited! You could hear deep sights of excitement, it seemed to me like they never saw a sunrise before! I have to admit it was kind of funny for us. Truth is that sunrise itself is really an average, it must be the place, the atmosphere which excites people. And then there is the shadow. A perfect triangle shaped shadow of the Sri Pada mountain, which really is something worth to see. But you have to experience it with the whole climb to appreciate it. So if you ask me: I am happy I climbed it and did not miss this chance. But, to be clear, as it is common here, you actually will not see any footprint at the end.


Vystúpiť na vrchol Adamovej hory je pre turistov na Sri Lanke celkom populárna aktivita. Niektorí vám povedia, že to za tú námahu nestojí, výhľady sú podpriemerné na to, aby ste sa niekoľko hodín štverali po schodoch. Iní vám povedia, že je to nádhera. Ak máte málo času, je to naozaj ťažké rozhodnutie, pretože Adamova hora leží v centrálnej časti krajiny a prístup k nej, ale aj vzdialenosť od nej k ďalšiemu zaujímavému bodu zaberie niekoľko hodín (plus samozrejme čas na výstup a zostup). Nuž, ja som ten výstup nakoniec do nášho plánu vtesnala, pretože som sa bála, že o niečo prídem. A tak sme šli.
Adamova hora ätaktiež nazývaná Sri Pada alebo "motýlia hora" meria 2243 metrov a je to budhistické posvätné miesto. Je známe otlačkom nohy na vrchole hory, ktorá podľa budhistickej tradície patrí Buddhovi, podľa hinduistickej bohu Shiva, a podľa islamskej a kresťanskej patrí Adamovi. Podľa islamskej je to miesto, kde Adam dopadol na Zem.
Do dediny Nallathanniya (odtiaľ sa začína výstup) sme došli podvečer. Šli sme sa prejsť, aby sme videli, kam v noci pôjdeme (výstup sa začína tak okolo 2 ráno, aby ste mohli vidieť východ slnka), ale nie je tam veľa na pozeranie, je tam iba kopa obchodov (stánkov) s takými ich typickými čapicami -strašne smiešnymi) a teplým oblečením (pretože hore je zima) a všelijakými farebnými hračkami a gýčmi rôzneho druhu, takže sme sa vrátili do našej izby a snažili sa zaspať.
vyrazili sme o 2:30. Väčšia časť cesty pozostáva zo stoviek (ale asi aj tisíciek) schodov. najskôr nie sú príliš strmé, cesta začína tak pozvoľna, ale potom sú strmšie a vyššie. Kým sa vyškriabete na vrchol, ste spotený ako prasa a zároveň sa trasiete od zimy a chladného vetra. Hore naozaj potrebujete dobrú neprefúkavú bundu (v ideálnom prípade). Cesta je osvetlená, takže sa v noci ide bez problémov. Bolo neskutočné, koľko ľudí sa podujalo na túto púť, a koľko miestnych už v tom čase zostupovalo dole, a to hovorím aj o veľmi starých a chorých. Po ceste sú stánky s občerstvením na každom kroku, môžte oddychovať a posedieť si. My sme zastali v tom poslednom, 300 m pod vrcholom, a dali si teplý čaj.
Vrchol hory bol už plný ľudí, pomaly sa nedalo kam pohnúť. Podarilo sa nám získať miesto pri zábradlí, jedno z posledných. A čakali sme. Čakali sme na východ slnka. Trvalo to nekonečne dlho, pretože tam bola strašná zima a boli sme tam minimálne hodinu, keď konečne vykuklo. Všetci boli nadšení. Počuť bolo obdivné vzdychy a prejavy úžasu, akoby nikto z tých ľudí ešte východ slnka nevidel. Až nám to bolo smiešne. Pravda je, že ten východ bol naozaj priemerný, muselo to byť tým miestom a atmosférou, že to ľudí tak vzrušovalo. No a potom je tu ten tieň. Perfektný trojuholník, ktorý vrhá Adamova hora, to sa oplatí vidieť. Ale musíte si zažiť celý ten výstup, aby ste to ocenili. Takže, ak sa opýtate mňa, som rada, že som tam šla. Ale aby bolo jasné, v konečnom dôsledku žiadnu stopu, odtlačok nohy nikde neuvidíte.






Here is the footprint


These views were more stunning than the sunrise itself







It all looks completely different during the day



The day just started and we have already been so far

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